{"id":1630,"date":"2021-03-02T14:15:03","date_gmt":"2021-03-02T13:15:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/?p=1630"},"modified":"2021-03-02T14:17:11","modified_gmt":"2021-03-02T13:17:11","slug":"future-heritage-fashion-rwandan-traditional-culture-in-the-global-market","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/?p=1630","title":{"rendered":"Future heritage and fashion design: Rwandan traditional culture in the global market"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Heritage studies might be forgiven for ignoring fashion shows in favor of museums and historic sites, but there\u2019s something to be learned from the runway, too. Recently, the Rwandan fashion house Moshions launched a new ad campaign:<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"twitter-tweet\">\n<p dir=\"ltr\" lang=\"en\"><a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/hashtag\/Moshions?src=hash&amp;ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\">#Moshions<\/a>: Bridging the past with the future to unleash the creative potential of the present.<\/p>\n<p dir=\"ltr\" lang=\"en\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-1635 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/files\/2021\/03\/future-heritage-300x300.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/future-heritage-300x300.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/future-heritage-1024x1024.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/future-heritage-150x150.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/future-heritage-768x768.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/future-heritage.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p dir=\"ltr\" lang=\"en\"><a href=\"https:\/\/t.co\/JfcPjTwFqv\">pic.twitter.com\/JfcPjTwFqv<\/a><\/p>\n<p>\u2014 Moshions (@Moshions) <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/Moshions\/status\/1359545821985992711?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw\">February 10, 2021<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/moshions.rw\/about\/\">Moshions<\/a>, based in Kigali, was founded in 2015 by Moses Turahirwa. On the company\u2019s website, you can find contemporary men\u2019s and women\u2019s wear alongside bespoke and <a href=\"https:\/\/moshions.rw\/traditional-wear\/\">traditional clothing, including the iconic imishanana<\/a>. Even on ready-to-wear, everyday fashions, details echo Rwanda\u2019s traditional art and cultural forms, such as black and white geometric patterns also found in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.afar.com\/magazine\/from-the-ashes-rwandas-traditional-imigongo-art-is-on-the-rise\">imigongo artwork<\/a> or in basket weaving, an inspiration to the company&#8217;s designers. Moshions is a \u201cculturally inspired fashion brand [which] uses traditional culture motifs with roots in Rwanda,\u201d business manager Dany Rugamba told me.<\/p>\n<p>Moshions isn\u2019t unique in adapting traditional culture to contemporary fashion. But their &#8220;Future Heritage&#8221; campaign is interesting, and not just because it seems specifically tailored to catch the eye of the UNESCO Chair on Heritage Futures. Moshions aims, as the campaign says, to \u201cbridge the past with the future\u201d: to bring traditional culture into conversation with what is happening today in Rwanda, and what might happen there\u2014and elsewhere\u2014in the years to come. When I spoke with Dany, our conversation showed the tension between specificity and vagueness, in both time and space, that must be negotiated in mobilizing traditional culture for a global market.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1640\" style=\"width: 310px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/https:\/\/www.afar.com\/magazine\/from-the-ashes-rwandas-traditional-imigongo-art-is-on-the-rise\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1640\" class=\"wp-image-1640 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/files\/2021\/03\/imigongo-300x131.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"131\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/imigongo-300x131.jpg 300w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/imigongo-1024x448.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/imigongo-768x336.jpg 768w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/imigongo.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1640\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Imigongo patterns.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Dany told me that Moshions is pursuing a strategy of \u201ctimelessness\u201d: \u201c50 or 100 years from now,\u201d he said, they hope that \u201cour pieces would still feel relevant at that time.\u201d The idea of timelessness in fashion, common to designers who seek a continuing appeal, echoes ways in which \u201ctraditional culture\u201d has also been framed. As the anthropologist <a href=\"http:\/\/cup.columbia.edu\/book\/time-and-the-other\/9780231169264\">Johannes Fabian famously argued<\/a>, anthropology\u2019s object\u2014historically, this meant non-Western, allegedly \u201cprimitive\u201d societies\u2014was once cast as a \u201ctimeless other.\u201d Instead of recognizing all cultures to be continually changing and adapting, those viewed as traditional were also seen as trapped in the past. Stripped of their history, these cultures were \u201ctimeless.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>But in reality, no culture is timeless, and neither is the traditional culture that Moshions uses in its designs. We can learn about the deeper past of what is now Rwanda through disciplines like archaeology, but this deeper past somewhat predates what is generally thought of as \u201cprecolonial Rwanda,\u201d whose material traditional culture is preserved in places like the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.tripadvisor.com\/Attraction_Review-g3588281-d3578983-Reviews-Ethnographic_Museum_Rwanda-Huye_Southern_Province.html\">Ethnographic Museum<\/a>. As the historian Jan Vansina points out in <a href=\"https:\/\/books.google.se\/books\/about\/Antecedents_to_Modern_Rwanda.html?id=tgT-lyk40agC&amp;printsec=frontcover&amp;source=kp_read_button&amp;redir_esc=y#v=onepage&amp;q&amp;f=false\"><em>Antecedents to Modern Rwanda: The Nyiginya Kingdom<\/em><\/a>, the Rwanda that we know today &#8220;is the product of the expansion of the culture of the Nyiginya court that began in the eighteenth but occurred mainly during the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries\u201d (p. 198). \u201cPre-colonial Rwanda\u201d and its associated traditional culture, as used in the heritage sector and in popular interpretations, usually indicate life as dated to this period\u2014when Rwanda was coming together as the nation whose descendants live there today\u2014right up through the early years of colonization, which began with the arrival of German colonizers in the 1890s.<\/p>\n<p>So Rwandan traditional culture as it\u2019s widely understood, and as it\u2019s adapted through fashion design, is time-bound itself. But the illusion of timelessness is the illusion of an enduring appeal: a promise of persistent relevance. And, even if the traditional culture that Moshions draws on has a specific temporality, the company is trying to mobilize it in the interest not of a return to the past, but of a move into a future grounded in historical legacies while not limited by them.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1637\" style=\"width: 210px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/shop.moshions.rw\/products\/mwimba-dress\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1637\" class=\"wp-image-1637 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/files\/2021\/03\/dress-200x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/dress-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/dress-684x1024.jpg 684w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/dress-768x1151.jpg 768w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/dress.jpg 801w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1637\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Moshions&#8217; Mwimba dress.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>This attempt to avoid being trapped in a highly specific vision of \u201ctraditional culture\u201d is paralleled by how Moshions handles its geographic context. While the cultural motifs that they draw on for inspiration are frequently Rwandan, Moshions deliberately markets its products to both a Rwandan and a global audience. Who, I asked, constitutes its target market? \u201cAnyone who is a fashion enthusiast,\u201d Dany told me: anyone from young, hip Rwandans, to members of the diaspora interested in connecting with their roots, to the broader pan-African market and the rest of the world. With the possible exception of Moshions\u2019 explicitly Rwandan traditional wear, the market is geographically and culturally inclusive, but the price points\u2014108\u20ac and up for a men\u2019s shirt\u2014clearly indicate that it is largely internationalized.<\/p>\n<p>Selling to this market puts pressure on the extent to which Moshions can utilize or rely on noticeably Rwandan motifs, especially if, as Dany said, they want customers who buy things \u201cbecause they\u2019re beautiful, not just because they have a story.\u201d As a company, Moshions doesn\u2019t want its designs to be tokenized as \u201cRwandan,\u201d in other words, or to appeal mainly to foreigners who are looking for the exotic. Instead, they hope to contribute to a global conversation about fashion by developing designs which are rooted in an interpretation, or a transformation, of a specific culture. &#8220;We want to represent Rwanda, absolutely, and [get people to] know about Rwanda one way or another,&#8221; Dany said, but &#8220;we don&#8217;t want to make it feel very limited or very exclusive,\u201d either. \u201cWithout feeling very nationalist,\u201d he said, he hoped that Moshions could \u201cposition Rwanda on an international level and for a global image.\u201d<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1638\" style=\"width: 210px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/shop.moshions.rw\/products\/umwitero-shirt\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1638\" class=\"wp-image-1638 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/files\/2021\/03\/shirt-200x300.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"200\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/shirt-200x300.png 200w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/shirt-683x1024.png 683w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/shirt-768x1152.png 768w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/shirt.png 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1638\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Moshions&#8217; Umwitero shirt.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>This attempt to avoid being pigeonholed as limitedly Rwandan illuminates the bind for African designers. \u201cWe don&#8217;t usually like to say [we are] \u2018African&#8217; fashion designers, because at the end of the day we are all fashion designers irrespective of where we come from,&#8221; Dany commented; &#8220;we are part of the world. We are part of exploring what&#8217;s happening intercontinentally.\u201d As a result, he said, Moshions\u2019 designs preferred subtler visual references to Rwandan culture over the use of styles like the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/search?q=african+wax+print&amp;tbm=isch&amp;ved=2ahUKEwiNoafrvofvAhWGtSoKHU8qCzQQ2-cCegQIABAA&amp;oq=african+wax+print&amp;gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCABQ1AdY1AdgrgloAHAAeACAAUmIAUmSAQExmAEAoAEBqgELZ3dzLXdpei1pbWfAAQE&amp;sclient=img&amp;ei=Z-E4YM3RL4brqgHP1KygAw&amp;bih=692&amp;biw=1219&amp;rlz=1C5MACD_enUS650US650\">iconic wax prints<\/a> which sometimes stand as a visual shorthand for Africa. These choices and the pressures which inform them illustrate how easy it is for African designers and artists to be trapped by tokenism and stereotyping into a narrow space, rather than fully participating in a global conversation, and how strategic their artistic and marketing responses are forced to be in response.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1646\" style=\"width: 310px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1646\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1646\" src=\"http:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/files\/2021\/03\/wax-print-300x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/wax-print-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/wax-print-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/wax-print-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/wp-content\/blogs.dir\/209\/files\/sites\/209\/2021\/03\/wax-print.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-1646\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A wax print.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Operating in an international market, Moshions is walking a fine line. They aim to not be limited by being perceived as exclusively Rwandan, while also not allowing that Rwandanness to be diffused to the point of becoming invisible. Their orientation toward the years to come is a vision of continued relevance achieved by evoking the &#8220;timelessness&#8221; of traditional styles but adapting them for an unbounded, global future.<\/p>\n<p>This measured level of specificity in both time and place is perhaps what allows Moshions\u2019 clothes to appeal to a wider market: they are intended to be unique enough to be interesting, but not so particular as to be alienating. The conversation Moshions is having about heritage is not just a discussion of fashion and design, but also an engagement with the possibilities and the difficulties of using traditional culture in a globalizing world.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Heritage studies might be forgiven for ignoring fashion shows in favor of museums and historic sites, but there\u2019s something to be learned from the runway, too. Recently, the Rwandan fashion house Moshions launched a new ad campaign: #Moshions: Bridging the past with the future to unleash the creative potential of the present. pic.twitter.com\/JfcPjTwFqv \u2014 Moshions [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":414,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1630","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blogg"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v21.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\r\n<title>Future heritage and fashion design: Rwandan traditional culture in the global market - UNESCO<\/title>\r\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\r\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/?p=1630\" \/>\r\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\r\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\r\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Future heritage and fashion design: Rwandan traditional culture in the global market - UNESCO\" \/>\r\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Heritage studies might be forgiven for ignoring fashion shows in favor of museums and historic sites, but there\u2019s something to be learned from the runway, too. Recently, the Rwandan fashion house Moshions launched a new ad campaign: #Moshions: Bridging the past with the future to unleash the creative potential of the present. pic.twitter.com\/JfcPjTwFqv \u2014 Moshions [&hellip;]\" \/>\r\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/?p=1630\" \/>\r\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"UNESCO\" \/>\r\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2021-03-02T13:15:03+00:00\" \/>\r\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2021-03-02T13:17:11+00:00\" \/>\r\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"http:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/files\/2021\/03\/future-heritage-300x300.jpeg\" \/>\r\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Cornelius Holtorf\" \/>\r\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\r\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Cornelius Holtorf\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"6 minutes\" \/>\r\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/?p=1630\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/?p=1630\",\"name\":\"Future heritage and fashion design: Rwandan traditional culture in the global market - UNESCO\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/#website\"},\"datePublished\":\"2021-03-02T13:15:03+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2021-03-02T13:17:11+00:00\",\"author\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/#\/schema\/person\/cf9ab1a3667493a95a6ffb7d71976847\"},\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"ReadAction\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/?p=1630\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/\",\"name\":\"UNESCO\",\"description\":\"Chair on Heritage Futures\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"SearchAction\",\"target\":{\"@type\":\"EntryPoint\",\"urlTemplate\":\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/?s={search_term_string}\"},\"query-input\":\"required name=search_term_string\"}],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"Person\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/blogg.lnu.se\/unesco\/#\/schema\/person\/cf9ab1a3667493a95a6ffb7d71976847\",\"name\":\"Cornelius Holtorf\",\"description\":\"In 2017, Linnaeus University in Kalmar, Sweden, was awarded a UNESCO Chair on Heritage Futures. 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